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jo3shmoo

jo3shmoo@sh.itjust.works
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When I bought my 3 it was $2200 including the harness for my car. Now the newer 3X is $1450 including harness (economies of scale!). I’ve been running it for 2 and a half years now and have 80,000 miles logged in my unit.

I’m using it in a 2016 Civic Touring which was their original dev car model so it’s well documented and had a modification available to get necessary torque in tighter highway turns and be able to slow to and resume from stop. Other cars may work better or worse in terms of torque and ability to control speed. They have pretty extensive vehicle listings on their site and GitHub detailing the capabilities they are available depending on the car.

https://comma.ai/shop/comma-3x

I don’t work for Comma or anything, just am a fan of the tech and how it has allowed the controls in my car to get better over time rather than being stuck with what they shipped in 2016. My wife’s 2021 CR-V has better stock driver assist than my 2016 Civic, but my Comma’s assist experience today is far better than either stock system.

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A Comma 3 driver assist system for my car. I drive a lot for work, and it’s an absolute game changer for driving distance as an enhancement to the stock LKAS and ACC systems. Highway miles are dramatically less strain and effort, and it makes me more able to watch the flow of traffic and keep an eye out for hazards. Their tagline is that they’re “making driving chill” and it’s definitely the case as long as you have a fully compatible vehicle.

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Lots of good advice here. I’ve got a bunch of older WD Reds still in service (from before the SMR BS). I’ve also had good luck shucking drives from external enclosures as well as decommissioned enterprise drives. If you go that route, depending on your enclosure or power supply in these scenarios you may run into issues with a live 3.3V SATA power pin causing drives to reboot. I’ve never had this issue on mine but it can be fixed with a little kapton tape or a modified SATA adapter. It’s definitely cheaper to shuck or get used enterprise for capacity! I’m running at least a dozen shucked drives right now and they’ve been great for my needs.

Also, if you start reaching the point of going beyond the ports available on your motherboard, do yourself a favor and get a quality HBA card flashed in IT mode to connect your drives. The cheapo 4 port cards I originally tried would have random dropouts in Unraid from time to time. Once I got a good HBA it’s been smooth sailing. It needs to be in IT mode to prevent hardware raid from kicking in so that Unraid can see the individual identifiers of the disks. You can flash it yourself or use an eBay seller like ThArtOfServer who will preflash them to IT mode.

Finally, be aware that expanding your array is a slippery slope. You start with 3 or 4 drives and next thing you know you have a rack and 15+ drive array.

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Aaaaand yes, this judge was another Trump appointee.

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It seems a lot of the new ones have a cellular modem. On the surface it’s to let you remotely access the car or do a remote start. Even if you don’t pay to subscribe and use it for your purposes they can utilize it to transfer out the data.

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Ditto. Mine was stolen out of my car 9 years ago and I still miss it.

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I don’t think I realized that was a limitation because I’ve been using the Vaultwarden fork. https://github.com/dani-garcia/vaultwarden

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Same, though I’ve got a couple Decepticons sprinkled in. They all connect to the Allspark ssid.

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I’ve been using the Killswitch since the non-magnetic version came out. It makes the whole system a little larger, but has a nice grip for holding and protects it well in my bag. It also takes up a lot less space in my bag than the stock case did. I haven’t had any issues plugging in USB-C cables into what ends up being a recessed port with the case on.

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You’ll be thrilled. I’ve got many many hours logged playing this game on my Deck after buying it on Switch and only playing a few minutes.

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