The official recipe for ragù alla bolognese, known throughout the anglosphere as the bolognese in spaghetti bolognese - which was been held on record at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce since the 1980s - has just been updated to reflect changing tastes.

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That’s the way! I once did it in my cheap charcoal water pan smoker. First serve was ok, smokey as expected. But after it rested for a night the smokiness gave way to a much more beautiful rich taste. I don’t really know how to describe it but it was a big hit with the family.

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