That’s ridiculous. Here’s a decent way to do it:
- Desolder the chip (or have a read-only port to plug into) and put it on a test board
- Read the chip output and send it to the manufacturer (has mileage plus w/ cryptographic signature)
- Manufacturer sends newly programmed chip to the mechanic, and the mechanic sends the old chip back in the provided packaging
- Customer gets the car back, and the manufacturer can verify that the chip swap was legit
Boom, under a week turnaround without any backdoors in the odometer.