Edit: Thanks to everyone for the help! Just an update.

Thanks to @nate3d and @IMALlama comments below I calibrated the e-steps that were very under and it improved a lot.

I left the filament on the dryer for 8 hours and tested again with a 20mm /s speed and 220 C print temp and it was better (picture below)

Just to answer you all saying it’s a clog or a hot end problem, it’s not, the whole hot end, includong nozzle, heat block and everything else, even the PTFE tube are all brand new and I checked before.

This is still the best I could achieve and It took 3 hours to print this benchy lol

‐-------- Hi everyone, I’m once again asking for your help lol Since I’ve tried to print with wood I totally wrecked my printer so I changed the hot end and am trying to set it all up again. Since my printer already came built and working I don’t have much experience with things like this so if you could help me I would be very thankful

What do I need to twerk to make it print better again?

I’m using Cura slicer and trying to print a benchy with the settings below:

Nozzle: 0.4

Layer: 0.2

Printing temp: 220 (it wont print with lower temp)

Speed: 60

Retraction distance: 7

Retraction speed: 70

Edit: PLA

17 points

I see you just printed a bonchee.

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4 points

I’m definitely not a printing expert but it looks like you’re under extruding, is the extruder the same size as the old one or is there some other change like that? I say this because the bottom layers look better than the higher ones, from memory cura over extrudes for the first few layers to help with bed adhesion.

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1 point

it is the same but I could try to change the flow

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3 points

Try calibrating your E steps if you haven’t already. Hope this helps! https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder-e-steps-flow-rate/

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2 points

Hey thanks!! This tip was gold and it helped A LOT

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3 points

Changed the hot end? Like just the brass nozzle tip? Or the what?

Either way if pla isn’t printing below 220 I’d start with a pid autotune. This will let you see if the hot end is actually doing what it should.

This site:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Has all the steps for tuning a printer, pid and e steps are listed. It’s worked well for me on my old Ender3 Bowden drives and many of my newer direct drive ones.

What printer do you have?

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1 point

oh thanks!!! I’m looking at the e steps and will look at pid after!

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7 points

Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.

Suggestions:

Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions

Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.

Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?

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