I just recently got into using a bike for commuting and I was wondering if this is a good way to secure my bike? I know, previously, people would recommend only needing to lock the back tire to a solid object, but I’ve seen videos of people easily cutting the back tire, breaking it and taking the frame/front tire. My method of locking is sort of similar, except I do lock around the splash guard. If this isn’t very secure, I’d have to get a longer ulock or chain, because there doesn’t appear to be an easy way for me to lock around the back tire, frame and solid object with my current ulock. Any suggestions are appreciated.

14 points
*

The front wheel is correct but I would move the D lock at the back. It is only round a wheel and a mudguard.

Your current method means the frame could be stolen by undoing the wheel bolts and lifting away. Can’t see exactly how the mudguards are fixed and they might complicate it a bit but not much.

I’d suggest low on the seat tube just above the chain ring and then loop the cable round the front and back wheels and into the D lock.

Edit: forgot. Don’t bother looping up through the seat like that. If they want to steal that with the cable there it’s only two bolts. It’s only one without the cable but if you were still worried you can get security seatpost bolts

permalink
report
reply
5 points

they can’t just undo some bolts and lift away, they have to cut either the wheel or the lock itself.

it’s a safe method recommended by sheldon brown

permalink
report
parent
reply
-2 points

Should have said, unbolt and damage the wheels then lift away.

Which could be done with a spanner and by standing on the back wheel to squash it to an oval and push it through.

So then you’re buying a hardened D lock and making it as strong as an aluminium and rubber wheel. If they have very basic cutters they are through both wheels in seconds and can lift the bike away. Leaving the lock intact on the bar.

No point in having a hardened lock if it is going to be used like this. Just buy a bargain basement long cable lock as all the benefits of the hardened D are being removed.

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points

very basic cutters that cut through both wheels in seconds

i would like to see that.

Are you writing from some experience or is this theoritical?

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point
*

Oh come on, it would be fantastically difficult to crush the wheel in situ and get it though the frame triangle and you’d end up with a fucked up partial bike that wasn’t that good to start with.

Locking the rear when in the frame triangle is fully secure.

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points

I second the part about not bothering looping up through the saddle. It would also give a bit more play with the cable allowing the D lock to be moved to a better position.

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points

I was always taught to lock around the wheel, frame, and whatever you’re locking to. Just two points leaves something vulnerable

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

Yep this is how to do it.

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

I’m sorry I don’t understand, why is looping the cable through the seat a bad idea? Cable lock isn’t much, I agree, but i figure it at least stops someone with just an Alan wrench from taking my seat post, and would also need a cable lock cutter.

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points

They don’t need cable cutters. They can just undo one of the bolts holding the seat together, pull the cable out and then undo the seat post bolt to remove the seat. So all you’ve really done is have them undo an extra bolt. No need to cut the cable.

Keep more cable for securing both wheels and D lock frame to post. If they’re really bothered about the seat get a security seat post bolt.

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

Ah I see what you mean now.thanks for the info!

permalink
report
parent
reply
9 points

Lot of good advice here, but I’ll add that no lock is perfect. If someone wants your bike, they will take it. This is good enough to keep someone from walking away with your bike, but anyone with tools can break any bike lock on the market.

Just keep that in mind when you’re spending time and energy, and especially money, protecting your bike. It’s a very nice bike, but it is replaceable if the worst should happen.

permalink
report
reply
1 point

Yeah I’m hoping having locked like this when I go places is enough of a deterent to leave it alone.

permalink
report
parent
reply
8 points

As others have said, U-lock through frame and rear wheel if possible. Otherwise not bad. I’ve also taken to using a motion detector alarm on my last bike packing trip.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFBV7TW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

permalink
report
reply
3 points
*

I can vouch for those alarms! I’ve got one on all of my bikes an e-scooters. If you’ve got a rear rack, you can mount it to the underside of the top rack deck, so it’s harder to disable. But the alarm + 1 or two locks is a really good option to keep things secure.

permalink
report
parent
reply
2 points

*vouch

permalink
report
parent
reply
2 points

Thank you. Corrected 🤗

permalink
report
parent
reply
2 points
Deleted by creator
permalink
report
parent
reply
7 points

I don’t know what bike theft is like in your area, but here in nl all bikes have a rear lock that’s mounted to the bike to keep the rear wheel secure. In the big cities people also usually attach their bikes to solid objects using a chain through the frame and the front wheel. I would be more concerned about your lock- such string locks are very easy to cut through with a bolt cutter. My recommendation would be to get a strong chain link lock with a plastic sleeve. I’m sure you can find such locks online where you live.

permalink
report
reply
6 points
*

If the lock is long enough to put the wheel through it, it is usually also possible to include one of the seat stays as well.

Cutting both the wheel and a seat stay is possible, of course, but it severely devaluates the bicycle and also makes it unrideable so the thief can’t use it to escape.

Locking the bike through the seat tube is not as good because the bike is still rideable after cutting through it.

permalink
report
reply
1 point

Sadly the ulock doesn’t fit through the seat stay because the seat stays are wider than the the rear tire. I wanted to lock through there but it’s very difficult/impossible. Do you suggest I get a longer ulock?

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points

I think what you are doing is fine. No need for a different lock. Your current setup is better than most.

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

Thanks for the advice!

permalink
report
parent
reply

Bike Commuting

!bikecommuting@lemmy.ml

Create post

A place on the fediverse to share and discuss about commuting by bicycle

Community stats

  • 5

    Monthly active users

  • 85

    Posts

  • 422

    Comments