I’m well aware that I can rip most Blu-rays with MakeMKV and then convert to mp4 with Handbrake; however, the former just rips everything raw from the disk so the file size is humongous and the conversion via Handbrake for just a single file is terribly long and puts a lot of strain on my computer.
I’ve heard that EaseFab LosslessCopy is decent, but they only have a Windows and a Mac version, and I’m unsure how well it’d run under Wine.
I am willing to pay for it, but only as long as it’s not a subscription thing. Has to be a one-time payment.
Does anyone know any decent Blu-ray ripping software that fits these conditions and run well on Linux? Specifically, it would be either Pop!_OS or Linux Mint. (I’m still using Windows because I want to figure out some software alternatives before I do so I’m not caught with my pants down, so to speak.)
You can link the makeMKV libs to handbrake so it’s a one step process disk -> compressed form.
#!/bin/bash
# Intention: replace aacs decoding with makemkv's superior libmmbd programatically
# elevate privilages to sudo
[ "$UID" -eq 0 ] || exec sudo bash "$0" "$@"
# test if libmmbd is installed already, exit otherwise
libmmbdpath=$(find /usr -name libmmbd.so.0)
echo "libmmbd path is $libmmbdpath"
if [[ ! $libmmbdpath == *"/lib/"* ]]; then
echo "libmmbd not found, please install makemkv first"
exit 0
fi
# test if libaacs is installed already, set desired path otherwise
libaacspath=$(find /usr -name libaacs.so.0)
echo "libaacs path is $libaacspath"
if [[ ! $libaacspath == *"/lib/"* ]]; then
libaacspath="/usr/lib/libaacs.so.0"
else
echo "libaacs found, you must uninstall libaacs"
exit 0
fi
# test if libbdplus is installed already, set desired path otherwise
libbdpluspath=$(find /usr -name libbdplus.so.0)
echo "libbdplus path is $libbdpluspath"
if [[ ! $libbdpluspath == *"/lib/"* ]]; then
libbdpluspath="/usr/lib/libbdplus.so.0"
else
echo "libbdplus found, you must uninstall libbdplus"
exit 0
fi
# if we made it here, it's time to take action
# softlink mmbd to aacs
ln -s $libmmbdpath $libaacspath
# softlink mmbd to bdplus
ln -s $libmmbdpath $libbdpluspath
echo "successfully set up libmmbd as the system decrypter"
exit 0
Bro answers with a complete bash script just for this dude’s conveniance! Hats off to you sir!
I apologize. As grateful as I am that you took the time to write all this out, I must admit I am still very much a Linux noob and so all this is way beyond my abilities. :/
You copy that whole thing into a terminal after you have both makeMKV and Handbrake installed, then press enter
While in this case it is the solution (and Kata1yst really seems to know what they’re talking about), I feel like there’s a need to remind people every now and then to be careful with shell scripts. There’s loads of instructions on the internet where they suggest just to pull random script from the internet and pass it trough as is to run with root privileges. When you do something like ‘curl https://stackoverflow…|bash -’ it’s quite literally the same than letting a random guy from the street to your computer and let them do whatever they want with it.
I’ve ripped the entire 10 seasons of the show “friends” using makeMKV. Just make sure you give it a couple of trial and error runs so you can understand what you’re getting. Some blurays have many options that you may or may not need.
MakeMKV (at least in windows) lets you rip a remuxed mkv without having to rip everything. So you can just select the titles, audio, and subtitle tracks you want without ripping all the other stuff. You don’t need to make a full backup and then pull all that out.
I’m not sure I understand. What I do is I use MakeMKV rip the files from the disk into MKV format. Not an ISO.
Reencoding video will always put a lot of strain on your computer, regardless if it’s Handbrake or some other tool doing the conversion. With that said, it also depends a lot on the settings you use to transcode.
Can you share what video settings you tried in Handbrake?
Ok, so two things stand out.
First, you’re using placebo as your encoder preset. This is slow, stupidly slow.
Searching for some comparisons between the different presets that show how slow it is was more difficult than expected, most people don’t even test this setting. Found one comparison here anyways luckily. The first graph (red line) shows how many fps/second were achieved on average. The fastest preset they tested, veryfast, is 68 times faster than placebo.
For reasonable values I’d use medium or slow, which are still 20 times or 10 times faster with minuscule quality differences. Also see the FFMPEG FAQ on why placebo is stupid.
Now for the second thing. I get why you put 0 as CRF, but that’s not a good idea. You’ll most likely have a bigger file in the end than what you started with.
The bluray itself does not contain enough details to actually need such a low CRF. 17 or 18 is visually lossless, as in you won’t be able to tell the difference with your eyes. For my encodes I use 20 most of the time, as it still more than good enough. Reasonable values, if you want a smaller file size are up to ~28.
TLDR: use slow with CRF 20 as a starting point.
I hope some of this made sense to you and sorry if it comes over as too agressive.
Still, hope this helps you get what you want.
Edit: One more thing I thought about. You can use the hardware encoder in your GPU if you want. However, that will come with worse quality and bigger files than encoding on the CPU. Still something you might want to look at just to compare.
I…uh…feel like a dumbass now. I didn’t know a lot of this. When I first started using Handbrake, a lot of articles I read suggested to use Placebo / CRF 20 if I wanted no loss in quality. I also do this when I rip DVDs and the file sizes and everything have always been perfectly reasonable. Though I suppose maybe that was because DVDs are 480p max typically and those naturally have much smaller file sizes than Blu-rays hold.
I just don’t want a loss in quality, that’s all. :(
Also,
TLDR: use slow with CRF 20 as a starting point.
Thanks. You didn’t come across as agressive to me. :) I appreciate the information. I’m no noob as I’ve been ripping DVDs for years using Handbrake but I am very much a beginner when it comes to ripping Blu-rays, which seem to be a slightly different beast than the former, so I’m glad that everyone is so willing to share tips. :)
Well, if the file sizes are too big you need to reencode them. That’s just how it is, regardless of the software you’re using. If your computer is too slow at that, you may want to use faster settings. For example, you could use a codec that’s hardware accelerated by your GPU.
I understand that. That’s what I was talking about with Handbrake. Problem is, when a single 23 min video file is 5 GiB in size, having Handbrake re-encode that just takes too long.
(I tried doing it and the estimated time remaining around start was something like 3 days worth of having my computer run 12 hours a day without stopping. I want to make the file sizes smaller, not burn out my computer components. Lol.)
@Octagon9561@lemmy.ml and @NoDignity@lemmy.world : I edited my post to include my Handbrake settings and system specs.
What settings are you using and what CPU?
I used to transcode blu-ray movies with handbrake in H.264 using an i7-950 and it only took a few hours for a 2 hour movie.
Try using the x.264 encoder in handbrake set to constant quality mode. Set the CRF to around 20-22 and use the fast preset.
The slower presets significantly increase the encode time with only a small decrease in file size.
Keep in mind that the RF values will be completely different if you use other encoders like H.265 or even H.264 with a hardware acceleration encoder. For 1080p, 20-22 is indeed appropriate but lower res like 480p will require a lower RF like 16-18 for the same quality. Meanwhile 4K will be fine with 24. Again, assuming you use the x264 encoder which is not hardware accelerated. For best results, I’d really recommend playing around with the settings and see what works best for you.
Handbrake’s speed depends entirely on your settings. For example, in the video tab next to video encoder you can select codecs like H.264, H.265 or AV1. The newer the codec, the more efficient and space saving your result will be but also the more time it will take. You may or may not also see the same codec twice but with NVENC or some other hardware feature next to it. Those will be significantly faster. If you have a choice between multiple hardware acceleration options, I’d recommend picking Nvidia > Intel > AMD for the best results. If none appear, you could buy a newer graphics card that support those features if budget allows. Other than that, something else that also significant affects how fast Handbrake will be is the preset option in encoder option (also in the video tab). You can select everything from placebo to slow to fast to ultrafast. The slower the higher the quality but also the slower it will be. Faster presets will be faster but will offer lower quality.
Depending on your hardware you should be able to have Handbrake use your GPU to reencode the video much faster than your CPU. If you have Nvidia it would be Nvenc, Intel is Quicksync, and AMD is VCE. If you select one of those as your codec it should go much faster. Check the hardware encoders section on the Handbrake documents https://handbrake.fr/docs/en/1.4.0/technical/video-nvenc.html . Even if you were using windows you would run into the same problem at some point you are limited by how fast your hardware can process the video and no software can make up for that.
