So I like to use Xbox controllers (doesn’t matter if it’s first- or third-party) because I like the layout, it’s just comfortable to me. However I’ve noticed that on all my controllers in the past few years, the left thumb stick will start to “give out” over the course of a couple months. For instance I’ll be pushing it forward all the way, but it won’t register for some reason and my character will only move a little bit. Sometimes wiggling it a bit will fix it, sometimes it doesn’t. And it’s not like I’m squeezing the hell out of the controller or mashing the stick constantly; in fact it’s made me try to be more delicate with my controllers, even though I’m just playing the games normally.
Is it just how controllers are, or am I just getting the shit end of the stick?
It’s pretty common for Xbox controllers to get stick drift especially if they are older. Controllers that use “Hall effect” sensors for the joysticks apparently don’t have this issue but I am not sure there are any affordable ones I can recommend. I am not sure how common it is for Xbox controllers to just have a stick straight up die, that sounds much more unusual and maybe like something that is more prone to happen with a third party controller?
I have never done it but you can replace just the joystick part on the controller and that may be a cheaper route.
Also, if you are playing on a computer, software such as steam will let you define custom dead zones to be just big enough to eliminate stick drift and no bigger which helps a ton.
I have bought multiple Xbox x/s (wtf is wrong with your naming scheme Microsoft seriously) controllers over the years used on eBay at the lower end of the price range ($25ish). I try to find listings that state the controllers have no stick drift. I guess one of the controllers I bought had a bit more stick drift than I wanted but I fiddled with the dead zone (in my case through steam settings) and the problem went away. For precision stuff I use an armor-x pro to give my Xbox controller gyroscope aiming anyways :P
This youtube channel is a great resource on all things controllers, the guy might come off as annoying at first but the info is extremely good. https://m.youtube.com/@GamerHeavenOfficial
I deal with it by warranty replacement if the controller is still within warranty or buying a new one. I just have accepted the fact that controllers are replaceable items in my life.
It happens because from normal use the potentiometer inside the joystick wears out. Usually you can buy joystick assemblies for a 1/10 of the price of a controller, so if you can solder its very affordable to repair them.
If you dont want to solder, you can extend their life by applying a bit of contact spray to the potmeters inside after disassembling the controller. But that can corrode other components, so be careful with it. Still beats just throwing them out.
I’ve seen those in disassembly videos of the steam deck and the switch maybe. But all the standalone controllers I personally have taken apart were soldered in place. eg. xbox360, dualshock4, some generic third-party ones.
Hall-Effect is supreme,
But we’ve been using potentiometers for controller joysticks for 25 years now… and yet it’s only been a huge issue lately.
How come nintendo switch (with replaceable controllers), has major stick drift issues, causing owners to buy several controllers over the life of the console, while nintendo switch lite (without replaceable controllers) seems to have more reliable sticks? Does nintendo manufactures the replaceable sticks with just enough tolerance to last barely outside the warranty period so their customers would buy more?
Why does the Geo Metro exist when everyone could just drive Ferraris?
If controllers arent replaceable, you’re going to make them more durable, which raises price.
It’s a trade off
Buy the part and replace it.
What part would you have to replace on an Xbox One Elite controller, and where can you source such part(s). I googled before with no luck. Would appreciate any help. Thank you!!
https://a.co/d/0afS9ti Looks like the regular, s, and elite 1 all use the same module.
The solution to stick drift is buying controllers with Hall Effect joysticks; drift is caused by plastic parts literally grinding down and potentiometers wearing out. Hall Effect sticks don’t make contact, so they don’t have this issue. Since you like the Xbox layout, 8BitDo’s Ultimate controller could be a good third-party option for you.
I replaced my Joycon stick with a hall effect stick. Now it just drifts in a different direction, and I can’t run full speed to the left anymore.
CORRECTION: I had to calibrate it. Now it works great!
As far as I know its the graphite parts inside the potmeter that wears down.
Do you know what port it uses to charge? It has a charging dock but i can’t find it it charges through USB C or what in the dock. I dont want to have to use the dock to charge it
Do you know if the L2 and R2 use hall effect as well?
I play a lot of racing games, and I find that that L2 especially wears out prematurely on Xbox controllers.
Oddly I don’t have any problems with stick drift, just the L2 and R2 buttons become erratic.
I don’t know, but I suspect they’d’ve advertised it if that’s the case.
For what it’s worth though, I’ve been using an 8bitdo Pro (the predecessor to the Ultimate) daily since early 2020, including a lot of Splatoon (a game with a lot of holding and mashing of both triggers), and the triggers haven’t gotten the least bit soft or drifty, and (according to the Windows controller config screen, at least) still smoothly pull through the full analogue range. So they’re doing something good, anyway.
