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Any tips on printing lego parts?

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JoShmoe@lemmy.world
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I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.

Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?

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_haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works
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As great as it is at detail, even resin won’t be perfect. Plus it won’t last if you use it because of the nature of resin.

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littleblue✨@lemmy.world
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Perfection is an illusion.

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_haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works
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Sure but Lego’s ridiculous tolerances are very real (and very impressive if you ask me).

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littleblue✨@lemmy.world
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While I’m also impressed at LEGO for that reason among others, printing in resin is the only way to make proxies even remotely viable — even if such will be fractions of a millimeter off from originals. 🤘🏽

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JoShmoe@lemmy.worldOP
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I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.

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