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Any tips on printing lego parts?

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JoShmoe@lemmy.world
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I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.

Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?

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littleblue✨@lemmy.world
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While I’m also impressed at LEGO for that reason among others, printing in resin is the only way to make proxies even remotely viable — even if such will be fractions of a millimeter off from originals. 🤘🏽

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_haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works
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You could probably get good results with something like sintering too but good luck affording that setup lol. FDM might be able to get close but it would take a lot of work to get and keep it there.

IMO, if you didn’t care about pairing with actual Legos, printing a mold might be the way to go (especially if you wanted to make a bunch).

If you wanted to just have something that looked like a Lego brick and you didn’t plan to repeatedly build/rebuild, resin would definitely be the way to go though. I don’t think resin would stand up to regular use though.

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littleblue✨@lemmy.world
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Choose your resin carefully and add 10-20% Tenacious, FTW.

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