I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.
Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?
My only advice is that it’s not worth the hassle. If you really want to though, yeah, slower is probably better.
You might be right about that. Still being able to print at that quality or near it, would look good.
As great as it is at detail, even resin won’t be perfect. Plus it won’t last if you use it because of the nature of resin.
Lego parts are incredibly precise, and the manufacturing tolerances have been consistent for decades. It’s nearly impossible to replicate that precision on any modern printers.
That being said, different parts are more tolerant of wiggle room. Grabbing a stud is hard, grabbing a 2x4 is not. If you were going to print a minifig head, trying to replicate the neck barrel is gonna be tough, but making a larger hole with 2-3 ridges which taper to grip might be easier. If you plan what you’re doing and are realistic about what you can print, it’s definitely not out of the question.
Lego is ABS if I’m correct.
You can’t slow down the head in specific spots but you can slow it down in general as well as setting a minimal layer time so that it pauses between layer and lets them cool.
I’ve printed usable pieces on my Prusa Mini with the highest detail settings. Far from perfect, but definitely usable.
If you haven’t heard of it before, LeoCAD is pretty cool for modelling with LEGO.
The tolerance on a lego brick is ±0.005mm. you’re going to have a hard time achieving that on any FDM printer, even commercial ones.
