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jagoan

jagoan@lemmy.world
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Is it possible? Yes. And you’ve mentioned stability could be an issue. I’ll add that if you count your time and wasted plastics to test the thickness, infill, etc. I think it’ll cost more than just buying the extrusion.

That said, if you already have core xy printer, you can start testing by replacing the frame with a printed parts. Starts with the vertical ones.

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Same, but a lot closer to 2 decades. But I still pickup humble bundles from time to time. Now i finally have a device to go through them.

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Not OP, but probably realistic is a better word for it. OP mentioned nerdy, so maybe physically weak, shorter than average, etc. Basically the opposite of 6’+ gym rat with year round 6-pack.

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Streisand Effect will kick in soon. I don’t even know any deep fake porn sites.

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Can others hear whatever’s playing? Like if I’m wearing it on the bus or in library, can others hear my music?

I’ve never used one, but I’ve read reviews on the cheaper ones, they said it’s just speakers in front of your ears.

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  1. If micro stepping varies that much then FDM printers (and CNC machines) wouldn’t have worked so well. Also, you can tune the micro steps, if you need 410 steps to move exactly 10mm instead of the default 400, just change it. (I just pull a random number btw, it’s been at least 5 years since I touched my Marlin firmware)
  2. If you’re familiar with coffee grinders, they’re basically using thread to adjust distance between 2 burrs. Even there (mid to upper-mid range ones) can’t guarantee the same grind size on the same setting for different unit of the same model, eg. setting 11 on grinder A will have slightly different result compared to another unit of grinder A on setting 11. Can it be done? Yes, one example is Commandante, that is a $300 hand grinder.

Tight tolerances will exponentially skyrocket production cost, period.

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It’s extremely expensive to produce things with tight tolerances. Cheap 3D printers have gotten away with it by making things “good enough”. Which why you got this the other way around;

In short, instead of an arbitrary number like 0.3mm that has no meaning to the user, they tell the user to turn this knob 1/4 of a turn. An instruction the user can follow.

0.3mm is easy to measure with the right tool like digital indicator. On the other hand, quarter turn on a knob might adjust 0.3mm on one bolt, but 0.5mm on another.

Also as mentioned, ABL, cheap and can be DIYed. Cheap / printed parts can warped over time, bolts can shaken loose, etc. ABL just put these out of the equation.

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I have the OG deck, 64GB self-upgraded to 512, and don’t have the Asus one. Ally wasn’t launched back then but there were quite a few Ayaneo ones.

My thought was this, I’m not sure you’re old enough to live through iPod days, but non Deck ones seems like the non iPod mp3 players. There were plenty of choices, cheaper (at least per GB). But 3-4 years down, when you simply need a battery replacement, which one do you think you can the replacement of? Or just look at accessories, cases, skins, etc.

You can get hundreds of performance comparisons all over youtube, I personally don’t think it matters as much. You’re not going to maxed out all the settings on either. They both can play recent games pretty well.

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Turntable uses needle to feel the “bumps” and turn it into sound, if the needle can feel dusts (which is why people always wipe them before playing), it can definitely feel the layer lines.

Dusts are like what single digit microns? while the best resolution for resin printer is at 10 microns.

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